September 06, 2008

Today I am posting some photos of fish camp from this past summer. Fish camp is held for the first several weeks of summer - after school is out and teachers have left. However, this past summer Jeanne stayed in Chevak for most for most of the summer. She actually went out to the fish camp - down river from Chevak and stayed for a couple of days. She is the one who took the photos.


Notice the woman is using an ulu - a knife that is very popular with the Alaskan Natives. Lots of tourists buy these knives to take home as suveniers.

Of course the children have to help out and they start at a very early age. Actually these are the lucky kids who get to learn these things early.


The fish is dried and they eat it all winter long. One of these sheds of fish would belong to only one family. They actually dot the banks of the river for quite a ways.


This young man - a ninth grader this year - is holding the head of a seal he killed. They use every last bit of the seal - nothing is discarded. They even use the seal skin to make dolls. That is actually a sealskin tacked to the shed behind him - I don't know if it is the one he killed - or someone else killed. Looks too big, I think to be his.

Digging for clams.

September 05, 2008

Senior Trip - Chevak Style
Actually it is Sea Week. the 10th-12th graders get to go out the river each fall for a week of learning about subsistence survival with some of our teachers and experienced folks from the community. A couple of the teachers who went shared some of their photos with me just for my blog. Maybe if I am here next year, I might take some personal leave days and go with them. It is pretty tough out there - but everyone seems to just love the experience. For many of out students this is the first time for many of the activities they participate in during the week.

Here the kids are leaving on the boats. Over half of the 10-12th graders went for the four days.

The girls are making Fried Bread - similar to tunnel cakes but no powdered sugar.


This man is the very well known John Pingayak from Chevak. He is our cultural heritage teacher here at the school and is has an honorary doctorate from Univ of Alaska. He is well known throughout the State of Alaska for his cultural heritage activities.

John is teaching the kids to make - well I forget the Cup'ik word (manuq) - but the things they fish with - remember a foot long stick, with a long string, some nails or a spark ply for a weight and some bait. It works beautifully. I haven't seen a fishing rod in Chevak since I arrived.

Felicia - one of my best customers in the library, is munaqing - fishing. She has to get around in a wheel chair - but that did not stop her from going to Sea Week and having a great time. She did everything anybody else did.

Our friend Jeanne with her fish she caught with the manuq!


The high school girls are defeathering some birds the kids have shot. They will cook and eat them later.

This young lady is pretty proud of her work!

The seal hunt begins. The boats are synchronized - surround the seals and criss crossing each other - always someone in front with the gun.

I believe there were six to eight boats on the water. Jeanne said it was a magnificent experience - not often these kids get to go. The gas is quite expensive here and money is tight.

Jack taking aim at a seal - he is one of my good library customers also.

Here someone is harpooning the seal after it has been shot.

Bringing in the seal. Notice the whiskers. That is good.

Isn't it beautiful?

Lawrence and Jack both shot the seal at the same time - so they had to share it.

The man is giving the seal a drink of water - that has been in his mouth. Oh, I'll never get this straight - but the seals like fresh water and when they get hunted they get out into the salt water. So when the seal is caught - the catcher gives the seal a drink of fresh water - or rather gives the seal's spirit a drink of fresh water. That way the bladder, which is - let me stop , I'll never get it straight. It is a sign of respect for the seal's spirit.
Time is flying by. I cannot believe it is already the 5th of September. We have been approved for open hours in the library two nights a week and on Saturdays. I guess we were a pretty big hit last year and this past summer. Another grant is going to pay since the library grant is over. There was a bit of money left so I purchased digital cameras (Nikon CoolPix - RED!) and video projectors for every classroom in the school. Pretty nice. I could have bought $15,000 more worth of books, but frankly I no place to put them. We are slap out of space in here. I had to move 16 chairs upstairs along with a reading table for the little ones. We may be able to enlarge the library in a couple of years and I will need those items again. Jeanne, one of our high school teachers just gave me some of her photos from Sea Week with the high school kids. I'll have to post a few. She also went to the fish camp this past summer so I will post a few of those also.

Tom and Carmen and I are entering the lottery to go see the bears at McNeil River next summer. Chances are slim we will get the time period we want but we will certainly try.

August 23, 2008

The time is really flying by. I have had one of the best weeks at Chevak and one of the worst the past few days. Best because, well the third year is great anywhere. All my issues have been worked out regarding the schedule, rules, furniture and book arrangement, programming - well thing just fall into place. I know every child's name now - and the high schoolers deal with me better since they see all the neat stuff I have in the library now. They are following the rules much better. We received our new chairs for the computers - black, comfortable, beautiful chairs that swivel. The children are loving them - unfortunately they are not allowed to adjust them and this is a real disappointment for them, since the chairs are like multi-positional. It is just that if every child who came in a sat down adjusted the chair to fit him or her - well the chairs would be worn out in a year. It just has to be this way.

The weather here has been just fabulous - I can hardly tell I am in Chevak. The sun has been shining almost every single day. It is wonderful - cause we know what's coming. It is berry picking season here. Whole families go out and pick salmon berries, blue berries, and black berries and more I don't know about. They pick gallon after gallon. It is a big celebration - keeping count of how many buckets and every one has their special place on the tundra to pick their favorite berries. Everyone is so excited about the berries - kind of like football season starting in Georgia.

It has been a very sad week for the whole community - a student of ours was in Anchorage last weekend and was hit by a truck in the middle of the night. She was crossing a main highway with dark cloths on and the driver did not see her. Such as sweet, quiet girl - everyone liked her so much. She used to come in to the library every single day with her best friend and get hand sanitizer and hand lotion. I keep that stuff in her for the kids and they love it - dropping in a couple of times a day to get some - also telling me what kinds they want me to get, etc. Jenilee will be sorely missed by all of us - so sad that she was so young (16) and the special tragedy of the accident. So the year has been off to a rather sad start. Remember there's less than 100 kids in the high school.

August 08, 2008

We made it back to Chevak with Roxie in tow. Each time I get on one of those bush planes I end up saying a prayer that if God will just let us land safely I will figure out another way to get to and from Chevak - although there is none - but when I am on those tiny planes I keep thinking that maybe I could just wade my way in and out. The flight this time was particularly scary. We encountered lots of turbulence as we took off and gained altitude. I honestly thought we were going to be blown out of the sky. Once we got above the clouds things calmed down a bit. Then when we got near Chevak and descended - oh my gosh. The pilot was so young and so small. He was biting his nails and the airplane felt like a pendulum in the sky. Usually the Native people think nothing of the ride - but this time even they were making comments and "Ohhing and Ahhing". I was gripping the window ledge thinking how glad I was that I was by the exit and I was reviewing the directions for opening the door in an emergency. We pulled in to land at Chevak faster than ever and completely sideways it seemed to get to the wind and then as we sidewayscame to the landing strip - I truly believed we were going to run off the side into the tundra. That guy never slowed down even as he made a 360 turn to go back to the airport building. Then there was no one to meet us and we had to wait about a half hour for someone to show up - we could stand in the wind and freeze, or we could stand behind the building away from the wind - but be eaten up by mosquitos. I was glad to get home finally.

Our friend Cyndy had actually cleaned up our apartment - I mean she had made the beds and put out fresh towels, pulled back the curtains, and DEFROSTED our freezer. Her parents had used our apt for a month for their visit to Chevak and then some friends of hers - biologists (bird studiers) had spent a couple of nights there - so I guess she felt like she needed to make sure everything was clean. It was. Cleaner than we keep it!

Lots of new teachers coming in. Most are new to Alaska - several couples and lots of kids. They are full of questions - but remarkably comfortable in this new environment. We were supposed to have three days of inservice with Apple Computer next week - but that won't happen - some issues in planning. So it looks like we will have four full days of work days - something unheard of. I think I'll work on my library handbook and hopefully update my web page.

Every new teacher who comes in to the library goes "Wow!" "This is beautiful!" "What a gorgeous library." "Look at these great computers." I may never leave here. I have been over a couple of times while Cyndy was still having Open Library this summer. The kids are so wonderful - computering, coloring, gaming, reading, listening to music, drawing. They love this place and I believe they will always remember this past year of extended hours in the library - a very popular place(due to my grant!). Cyndy was averaging 65 students each open day this summer.

July 29, 2008



We by-passed Hatcher Pass yesterday because, well, it was raining and the clouds were only about 20 feet above the ground. We enjoyed our drive back but we were really tired and worn out. When we got back to Anchorage we took Roxie to the kennel since she is not allowed in the North Star Inn on Elmendorf. Also, since she likes it there so much. It will be easier to shop and pack without her around demanding out attention. We pay $28.50 at Elmendorf and the cheapest decent motel around is around $150 a night. Also, we can wash clothes free here, they have free wifi, and a wonderful Expresso machine downstairs with free coffee. We packed up the trailer today and took it to storage. Tomorrow we will start purchasing and packing our groceries for the next four months. It will be stressful and tiring. August 2, we fly back to Chevak. We have lots of air miles, so was able to get our tickets to Bethel for $2.50 each plus some bonus miles - first time I've done that. The sun was beautiful and bright all day today - everyone was in a great mood everywhere we went.

July 27, 2008


I can hardly keep track of what day it is. Tom assures me it is Sunday. We left Delta Junction this morning around 9:15 after getting coffee at the Buffalo Diner. Everything is “Buffalo” there, the Buffalo Laundry, the Buffalo Auto Parts, the Buffalo Quick Stop. We had only 50 miles to get to the turnoff at Paxon and with all of our photo stops and viewing stops it took us till 11:15. The most interesting thing about this small 50 mile strip of highway was that it was the most perfect stretch we have seen in Alaska. High, snowcapped mountains, close up foliage covered mountains, acres upon acres of Birch trees, miles and miles of water – literally streams and creeks everywhere, and best of all – the pipeline kept reappearing at every turn – sometimes very close.
We saw moose, rabbits, prairie dogs (we think) and a big porcupine. Hardly anybody else was on the road – maybe we encountered 10 vehicles. There was no litered iron stuff from mines, no deserted shacks, no substandard houses – in fact we saw one lodge, a pipeline pump station, and several summer houses by the lake, and just a couple of RV places during that stretch. Truly a beautiful drive.

We turned onto the Denali Hwy at 11:15. I had spoken to a fellow traveler at a Viewing turnout and he said he and his wife made it in three hours. I wouldn’t have asked if they had made the trip except that their car was a mess – completely covered with dust. So, I figured with my constant “Tom, it would make me happy if you would just slow down.”, that Tom and I might make it in say, four hours. The end result was 135 miles in just over five hours.

The first 21 miles was paved – sort of. The rest of the road was dirt – packed hard dirt with gravel in it, some areas in pretty good shape and some others with potholes. We stopped every few miles to get photos. It was beautiful – just beautiful – even in the fine mist that we had most of the day. I cannot imagine what it must look like in full sun.
I tried to get Tom to think about camping there – what fun it would be. But he decided against it. Probably because he has to do all of the work. I can do the work – he just does it faster and better and his way – so I relent.
We decided to stay overnight at the Backwoods Lodge in Cantwell - we stayed here in August 2006 on our way in and really liked it. They like dogs here too.

Tomorrow we head back to Anchorage – via the Hatcher Pass. Another dirt and gravel road. Just hope we are not pushing our luck with the truck. She has sure been a trooper so far. I hope for sun.

July 25, 2008

We are staying in the Midnight Sun Hotel and it is pretty rustic. Our room has decor from maybe the 60's. Since we no longer plan ahead for places to stay - when we got here yesterday there was some issue over what place was pet friendly AND had a room available. The girls at the visitor center made some phone calls for us. The Midnight sun had some $79 specials - since we needed two nights we got the $79 special pet friendly room the first night and the $109 pet friendly regular room the second night. The $79 room is twice as large and the bathroom huge. The $109 pet friendly room is tiny and you have to climb up into the bathroom. Go figure.

We have been a few places today. Saw an actress portraying a 1890's photographer earl today in the Palace Grand Hotel. Afterwards we toured this lovely restored home of the commissioner from 1912-1916 - Oh I would love to have a house just like it - but not in the Yukon!

Later we went out to Dredge #4. Tom said on the way in yesterday that was the one thing he wanted to do. Then unfortunately this morning I said, "Well maybe I'll just sit in the truck with Roxie while you go on the tour." Then he said, I don't want to go without you. Let's just don't go." And I said, "Okay we'll go." And he said. "No I don't want to go." Well I'm sure someone out there can relate to how these little arguments can escalate. We were silent during breakfast - only starting to talk again when we were back in the truck with Roxie - she always soothes our rough edges.

Anyhow - we went out there - 30 minute drive to the Dredge and it was absolutely fantastic. I was absolutely amazed. And I climbed up and down those three stories with Tom. My legs will feel it tomorrow - but the thing was just amazing. We both mentioned when we got back to the truck that all we could think about was the poor guys who worked on the vessel and the owners getting all the money!

We also drove up to the Dome - this lookout way above the city - way above the city. We could see for miles and miles each way and the city seemed miniature.

We came back by the Jack London Center - saw a recreated cabin built from some of the original logs of his cabin. Very nice. We were the only ones there so naturally had a great time talking to the curator. Lots of photos and letters.

We are on our way back to the hotel - to our new tiny pet friendly regular price room - for a little nap. Tonight we go to the Robert Service (famous poet here) and here his poetry read.Tom is standing in front of his actual cabin where he lived for a few years in Dawson City.

We also went to Gerties to see a little show and do some gambling. Tom stopped after he lost $10.00. I got a sneak shot of a man who had over $2500 in chips playing poker.


It is very warm here - rainy too - but the weather seems to clear up at the appropriate times for us. We have really been fortunate. This photo shows Dawson at 12 midnight!


Tthe Top of the World Highway was just that - at the Top of the World. My photos cannot possibly do it justice.

July 23, 2008


Got to Tok (rhymes with spoke) this afternoon around 4 and we are staying at the Golden Bear Motel. So much for the tent!

The trip up was beautiful – I have posted a couple of photos below. In the one with Tom, you can see the pipeline in the distance.

In this one you can see the tunnel at the beginning of the McCarthy Road – which we traversed successfully today – no flat tires.


Tomorrow we head out early, passing through Chicken on the way to Dawson. Outside of Chicken, we will travel over a road called the Top of the World Highway. Hope we make it….


I’m sitting at Carmen’s kitchen table with her mother while she hooks a rug “on the go”. Carmen has just come in from a full day working on her house. I just can’t believe this beautiful three story home is being built by just a couple of people.

Our drive in yesterday from Valdez took most of the day. Of course we stop at every opportunity. One of our first stops out yesterday was to check out the oil tanker getting filled up across the bay at Valdez. In the photo – if I get it posted – you can barely see the tanker across the bay. It is huge but looks so small in the photo. In fact - as I look at this photo on the blog - well once aI make the photo small enough and with fewer pixels, the tankers, and oil tanks across the bay almost become invisible. Too bad - cause it was really a huge operation.


On the way out from Valdez, and we did hate to leave, we drove by Bridal Veil Falls Took Tom’s photo and he looked like a little mini-person.


Then we started going up the mountain and drove up and up and up for miles it seemed. Close to the top we saw all these ice chunks up and down the mountain – finally coming to one that was just by the side of the road. I made Tom pull over and I hopped out of the truck. I said, “Come on, we’re going to check this one out.” We carefully traversed the rocks and gravel and got to the ice chunk to touch it and take photos. Roxie hopped right up on top of it and started dancing around – it was like she was back in Chevak, I guess.


At the very top – we came to Worthington Glacier – a tremendous glacier and people were actually climbing the thing. In the photo – you can barely see them right in the center. I made what I thought was a big blue arrow pointing towards the climbers - but now I can hardly see the arrow. It is right in the center pointing left towards the four climbers. It was pretty cold and raining and we didn’t stay too long.



The long trek down the mountain was ahead - however, like the trip up, the trip down seemed to go for miles also. So, there were only a couple of places we had to brake carefully. We reached Chitina about 1:00, got gas - $32.38 for 6.3 gallons – around $5.30 a gallon and had a little picnic. Our trek on the road began and it was as beautiful as ever.



I kept making Tom slow down. I think that if Tom outlives me, that the one thing he will not miss about me and in fact be relieved that he does not have to deal with anymore is my constant “It would make me happy if you just slowed down a little.” Arrived without incident in at John and Carmen’s house at about 4:30. Carmen was still out at the construction site so we promptly drove out there to surprise her and of course see the progress on her home. She and her brother are now putting up the sheetrock – it really looks like a house now.

We enjoyed supper and talk and went to our cabin around 9:00. I lay down for just a moment, I was so tired. Did not wake up until 3 am when I changed into pajamas and went back to sleep.

This morning, we slept late. Around 11:00 we drove to the footbridge, parked out truck and walked over the Kennecott River to catch the van into McCarthy. There is not much there. Lovely however, and quiet and secluded. We toured the little museum and I decided that soon I want to make a museum room with all of my old things . We took the van again over to the Kennecott Lodge and the restored (a couple of buildings out of over a dozen) mine buildings. Ate lunch at the lodge there. I had clam/shrimp chowder and halibut cakes, Tom had chicken wraps. The soup was the chunkiest, best ever clam chowder. I talked the waitress into making us four servings for takeout – I don’t think they usually do that. She put it in coffee cups for us and put it in a paper bag which we had to carry up right all the way home.



Let me tell you that clam chowder was a hit at supper tonight. It was a very nice day even if it was sort of rainy and cold. As always, the people you meet just make the trip. Our driver was from New Zealand – the same area where Doc and Emma live (our former supt), the parking lot attendant was one of the many people who stopped to help us on the McCarthy road last year when we had our flat tire. We met a group of four trekkers who were teachers and it was the most fun talking about our jobs and where we had all taught. We met a guy at the lodge whose career had been a contract snow remover on the streets in Minnesota. Lot of young backpackers – well, oodles of serious backpackers – from all over the world – all friendly, all young, all tanned and rustic looking. I had just a tad of remorse that I had not done that sort of thing when I was in my twenties – but just for minute or two…



We enjoyed seeing our good friend Carmen again. Tomorrow we are off to Tok and then to Dawson City.